Racism in the food system can be traced back to slavery in the Americas.
The exploitation of Black labor established a powerful agricultural system that not only built the nation’s wealth but also perpetuated mistreatment, discrimination, and exploitation of people of color. Bridget Kelley, in her pieces for DC Hunger Solutions, noted how this legacy includes land dispossession—the unfulfilled promise of “40 acres and a mule” to freed slaves, now valued at $6.4 trillion—and discriminatory practices like biased farm loans and the racialization of farm work intensified by programs such as the Bracero initiative.
Amid this historical context, the inaugural Food as Medicine event came into being organized by WANDA led by Tambra Raye Stevenson (founder and CEO), and co-hosted by Johns Hopkins School of Nursing and Johns Hopkins University and Medicine’s Ward Infinity, highlighted the vital role food plays in health, particularly within the Black community. Held at the Johns Hopkins Bloomberg Center in Washington, DC, the event brought together Black leaders across culinary arts, agriculture, nutrition, healthcare, government, and technology. It aimed to explore food’s potential to promote health equity, bridge cultural gaps, and empower communities.
For the Black community, food is more than sustenance. It’s a connection to ancestors, to history, and to each other. Traditional dishes like West African egusi stew, abundant in fiber, calcium, and iron, hold deep nutritional and cultural significance. Dr. Allison Brown from the National Institutes of Health shared research that highlights how diets rooted in traditional foods often correlate with lower cardiovascular risks. Black immigrants, she noted, show lower instances of these diseases compared to their African American counterparts, largely due to their consumption of less processed, more plant-based diets. But as individuals and families move and adapt to new cultures, the preservation of these diets and traditions becomes crucial not only for identity but also for health outcomes.
Policy, too, is a powerful lever for change in the fight for health equity. Carrie Cartwright, USDA’s Director of Nutrition Security and Health Equity, spoke passionately about nutrition security—ensuring access to healthy, culturally relevant food for everyone. Cartwright outlined the department’s commitment to providing consistent and equitable access to healthy, safe, and affordable food. Programs like SNAP and WIC are evolving to incorporate options that reflect diverse cultural diets, a shift that Cartwright described as vital to promoting health equity. The USDA’s partnership with the VA’s Healthy Teaching Kitchen exemplifies this commitment, illustrating how nutrition programs are moving toward inclusivity. Through these partnerships, government agencies and private organizations are working hand-in-hand to ensure that policies, tools and programs resonate with the people they aim to serve. An example she highlighted was the update to educational tools like MyPlate, reflecting a commitment to culturally sensitive nutrition education that resonates across communities.
Integrating the idea of food as medicine into healthcare is transformative, a shift toward a more holistic view of health and well-being. Dr. Kofi Essel, Director of Food is Medicine at Elevate Health, described food as medicine interventions as approaches that work alongside healthcare to prevent, manage, and treat diseases. For him, addressing food insecurity, nutrition insecurity, and diet-related chronic conditions moves beyond a “one-size-fits-all” dietary model, advocating for medically tailored meals that respect cultural preferences while addressing individual health needs. For example, offering culturally familiar meals such as jollof rice for West African patients can enhance engagement and support their health goals.
From the farm to the table, challenges remain, especially when it comes to accessing fresh, culturally relevant ingredients.Chef Antonio Gilkey, Executive Chef and founder of What the Chef Catering & Events, shared stories of the obstacles he faces in sourcing these ingredients. Systemic barriers within the food industry often limit access to high-quality ingredients that meet the cultural needs of Black communities. Chef Gilkey and others in the culinary field are forging ahead with creative solutions—connecting with local providers, exploring alternative sources, and, where necessary, substituting ingredients while preserving nutritional value and cultural authenticity. Community gardens, especially those that grow foods indigenous to the African diaspora, have become vital resources in addressing these access challenges, providing a path to self-sufficiency and resilience.
Beyond access to ingredients, the broader social and economic factors, or social determinants of health, have a profound impact on food security. Dr. Brown highlighted the importance of addressing these structural factors, emphasizing that healthful eating requires more than just individual effort; it requires systemic change. Economic stability, neighborhood environments, and educational opportunities all shape how and what people eat. Programs like the NIH’s COMPASS initiative support local organizations addressing these needs on the ground. In Watts, Los Angeles, for example, community gardens in partnership with the housing authority provide access to foods indigenous to the African diaspora, underscoring the importance of community-led efforts to overcome structural barriers to food access.
The Food as Medicine event was also a reminder that change must come from within as much as it does from policies or healthcare. Chef Gilkey’s closing remarks summed it up: “The most important thing is understanding that food is medicine. Pay attention to your body and understand what’s happening inside you.” His words encapsulate a broader mission of the event, urging everyone to listen to their bodies and to bring mindfulness to what they eat, and for individuals to be empowered with the knowledge to make choices that support not only their personal health but also the well-being of their communities.
The event highlighted food’s essential role in closing health gaps and reinforcing cultural identity. By reclaiming culinary heritage, advocating for policies that promote nutrition security, and supporting community-led initiatives, the gathering emphasized food’s unifying power and envisioned a future where food plays a central role in achieving health equity and building a legacy of resilience for future generations.
